Stephen Becker

Mountaineering log

I offer no explanation for why I keep a log, other than to say that it's just one of my compulsions.

Climbs marked with "classic" climb emphasis are among Steck and Roper's 1979 list of 50 Classic Climbs of N. America, meaning they are usually of high-quality and moderate technical difficulty. "SP" refers to SummitPost, "MP" refers to Mountain Project, and "ST" refers to SuperTopo.

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Temple Crag (12,999') via Dark Star (16 to 24 pitches, 5.10b/c) with Hamik, Sat Jun 9. Hamik has some photos on facebook. Left car at 4:45 AM, climbed lower 500' buttress to start of the climb proper, spent the morning on the lower crux pitches (Hamik led the two 5.10 pitches), then simul-climbed the remaining dozen or so pitches to the top, avoiding Croft's suggested 5.10 variations. Back to car about 9 PM. Trailhead is 7,750', start of technical climbing at about 10,600' (Third Lake is 10,400') and end of technical climbing at about 12,600', so 2,000' of technical climbing. Description of the route by another climber.

Mt. Slesse (7,850' SP), with Tyler, Boris, and Booth, Jul 22. Photos on Picasa WebAlbums. We wanted to try the classic NE buttress, but due to the unusual winter, the approach had too much crevasse danger, so instead we scrambled up a subpeak instead and examined the old plain wreck. Canadian Cascades.
Mt. Rainier (14,411'), with Leo, via Dissapointment Cleaver route. Top out at crater rim (~14,200') and not the very summit due to nasty white-out and wind. Pasadena-to-Pasadena in about 48 hours. Sat-Sun July 16-18.
[I graduate from Caltech, June]
Mt. Whitney (14,457') via the Mountaineer's Route, with the Caltech Alpine Club. I was not the main leader this time, rather just an advisor. See some pictures. Part of the Alpine Club winter mountaineering trip 2011.
Mt. Baldy (10,064') aka Mt. San Antonio, with the Caltech Alpine Club. January. I was not the main leader, rather just an advisor. pictures. Part of the Alpine Club winter mountaineering trip 2011.

Attempt on Thunderbolt Pk. (14,003') with Kim. Labor Day weekend so no overnight permits for ANY place in the Sierra. Dayhiked on Sunday Sep 5. Made it past chockstone on SW Chute #1 before turning back.
Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via Cactus To Clouds trail with Juhwan. Left at 6:20 AM, summit at 6:20 PM, back at tram at 9:40 (barely caught last tram!). About 10,000' elevation gain. June 18. Southern California
Denali (20,320') aka Mt. McKinley, early May, with Sean and Justus, via the West Buttress. Dropped off on glacier late afternoon Sat May 8, arrive at 14k camp on Wed May 12, summit on Friday May 21 after a week of acclimatizing and waiting for good weather, then fly out Monday May 24. Skipped camp at 17k in favor of making summit push from 14k. Summit day: leave 14k camp 8:45 AM, arrive at 17k camp just before noon, at Denali pass (18k) a little around 1:30 PM, at summit by 5 PM. Decide to go up another 1,300' from Denali Pass and do the North Summit (19,470'), making use of Stanislav's tracks from earlier that day. Sean and Justus are back to camp by 8:30 PM, and I'm back at camp by 12:30 AM, descending from 17k to 14k in 55 minutes. After the summit, we no longer had the time or enthusiasm to climb the West Rib or anyting else in the remaining 4 days before our flight out of Anchorage. See the brief trip report (which includes links to pictures)
Mt. Wilson (5,715'). From my apartment, biked 30 min to trailhead, then jog to summit in 1 hr 50 min (3 hrs roundtrip), in preparation for Denali. About 14 or 15 miles roundtrip, and 4,750' elevation gain, not including the bike. The sudden training backfired, as two days later I realized I had a stress fracture or tendonitis in my foot. Sat April 17.
North Palisade (14,242') via U-Notch and the chimney pitches, with the Caltech Alpine Club, leading the trip along with Sean. 8 climbers. Two nights (Fri-Sun), except for Pratyush and I who came up Saturday morning. Saturday afternoon, 4 of us also climbed Mt. Gayley (13,510'). Sunday, everyone soloed until the chimney pitch, the self-belayed via prussik. One 120m rappel on descent of the U-Notch. Summit day was Sunday, March 28. Sierra Nevada. See the Alpine Club trip page for detailed trip report, and my photos.
Mt. Whitney (14,457') via the Mountaineer's Route, with the Caltech Alpine Club, leading the trip along with Justus. 22 climbers in 3 groups, 15 made it to summit. Camps at Upper Boyscout Lake (Friday-morning group) and Iceberg Lake (Friday- and Saturday-morning groups). Woke at 3 AM Sunday, left camp between 4 and 4:30 AM, ropes to summit in place by 6:50 AM, and everyone on summit by 8:30. Left Iceberg Lake around noon, back to cars around 6:45 (some arrived much earlier, a few arrived later). Summit day was Sunday, March 21. Sierra Nevada. See the Alpine Club trip page for detailed trip report, and my photos.
Mt. Baldy (10,064') aka Mt. San Antonio, with the Caltech Alpine Club. Led group of 18 people. Feb 20-21. See the photos. Spent night near ski hut. San Gabriel Mountains, Southern California
Mt. Baldy (10,064') aka Mt. San Antonio, with the Caltech Alpine Club. Led group of 26 people. Feb 12-13. See the photos. Spent night near ski hut. San Gabriel Mountains, Southern California

Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via Cactus To Clouds trail with Kim. This time we made it to the summit. 10,400' elevation gain! October 4. Southern California
Palisades Traverse, which includes Thunderbolt (14,003'), Starlight (14,200'), North Palisade (14,242'), Polemonium (14,080'), and Sill (14,153'); next day, did Disappointment Peak (13,917'). With Booth, ropeless. Started at South Lake at 4 AM, summitted Sill around 2:30 PM and over to base of Disappointment and Middle Pal around 6 PM. Next morning, summitted Disappointment by accident (meant to do Middle Pal, but had no route description), then hiked back via Palisade Lake, the JMT/PCT, LeConte Canyon, Dusy Basin and Bishop Pass, to arrive at trailhead around 10:30 PM. Sun-Mon Sept 27-28, Palisades region, Sierra Nevada. See the photos
Mt. Rainier (14,411') via Liberty Ridge. Easy conditions, but avalanche danger, so we climbed in 3 days during the mornings. Route in easy shape, except for 12' vertical bergshrund near Liberty Cap. With Boris, Bo, Booth, Sean and Justus. Liberty Ridge is a "classic" climb. See the photos.
Mt. Shasta (14,162') via Casaval Ridge, with the Caltech Alpine Club. With Sean, lead group of about 11 climbers. April 3-6. Northern CA. See the trip page I have for the Alpine Club, which lists some basic details.
Mt. Whitney (14,457') via the Mountaineer's Route, with the Caltech Alpine Club, leading the trip along with Justus and Sean. 11 climbers in the main group, 10 of which summited, and 2 climbers (Sean, Stefan) who day-hiked in; also, met up with Fu Hai's group and Justin (who was dayhiking). Many other teams on the mountain. Camp at Iceberg Lake on Friday night (we made only one camp, unlike years previous), wake up at 4 AM Sat and summit between 8:30 AM and 10:30 AM; down to cars around 6 PM. March 20-21. Sierra Nevada. See the Alpine Club trip page and my photos.
Mt. Abbot (13,715') via North Couloir Direct, Sat-Sun-Mon Jan 10-12. With Wayne, Joel, Jeandrew, Justus and Sean. Two pitches near summit.

Minaret Traverse, in two days, with Booth. Probably one of the first 10 ascents. Thur-Fri Sept 18-19. Near Mammoth, CA. Read my summitpost.org trip report or see the photos.

Kehrlein Minaret	Ken Minaret
Clyde Minaret (12,281')	Michael Minaret (12,240')
Eichorn Minaret (12,255')	Rice Minaret
Bedayan Minaret	Dawson Minaret
Dyer Minaret	Jensen Minaret
Turner Minaret	Leonard Minaret

Mt. Russell (14,088') via the Mithril Dihedral (SP, MP, ST, Gary's trip report), 5.9+/5.10-, with Gary, day-hike. 3 AM start at trailhead, 10 AM start climbing, 5 PM summit, 10 PM end at trailhead. Swung leads, broke dihedral in 3 pitches; small snowstorm as we summited. Descend E. Arete. Sept 7.
Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via Marion Mountain with Kim, Jeandrew and Tracy. It rained, so we bailed on Tahquitz. Trailhead about 6,500'. Thunderstorms. This was my first true ascent of San Jacinto, after three previous failures this year. Aug 30. Southern California
Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via Cactus To Clouds trail with Kim. Didn't make it all the way (stopped about 2 miles past the Ranger Station/Tramway). Start at about 400' in Palm Springs, and we ended at about 9,000' or 9,500'. August 7th (I do not recommend climbing this in August; it was over 95 F at 5 AM). Southern California
Palisades Traverse, which includes Thunderbolt (14,003'), Starlight (14,200'), North Palisade (14,242'), Polemonium (14,080'), and Sill (14,153'), with Brett. Sat, Aug 2nd (and a bit of Sunday too -- bivied at 2nd lake, and hiked out by 7:45 AM). From South Lake to Big Pine Trailhead, with two cars. 2 raps, 2 summit-block belays and 4 misc belays. Class 4 and 5. Palisades region, Sierra Nevada
Temple Crag (12,999') via Venusian Blind Arete (5.7) with Garrett, Sat July 26. Left around 5 AM, at snowfield around 7AM, at summit around 5 PM, and at car around midnight. Palisades region, Sierra Nevada
Mt. Audubon (13,233') with the family (Mary, Charlie and Andy) and Kim and Seren; late June. 2,730 vertical feet. Indian Peaks Wilderness, Colorado
Mt. Stuart (9,415') via Ice Cliff Glacier (day two) and via the North Face with gendarme (day three), with Booth, Boris and Justus. June 12-15 (one approach day, and bivied on trail the final night). Ice Cliff was in "easy" shape, due to heavy snowfall recently; North Ridge was a bit more difficult due to the snow on the ridge, and ice on the 5.9 gendarme pitches, but it still went free. Booth hit by rockfall, knees injured. North Ridge is a "classic" climb. See the photos. Cascades, Washington
Mt. Sill (14,153') via the North Couloir, with the Caltech Alpine Club, helping Sean lead the trip. 4 of us slept in a snow cave. Over two nights, from N. Fork Big Pine TH. Attempted Thunderbolt on Sat evening, but turned around at the ridge. 7 people for the two-night approach, 4 more for a one-night approach. Of those, only 4 made it to the summit. March 23-23. See the photos. Palisades, Sierra Nevada. See the alpine club trip page
Mt. Whitney (14,457') via the Mountaineer's Route, with the Caltech Alpine Club, helping Sean lead the trip. 7 of us slept in a snow cave. Over two nights. 14 people, 10 summited. March 7-9. See the photos (and my second more extensive photo gallery). Sierra Nevada. See the alpine club trip page
Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via N. Face (aka Snow Creek) with Sean. Left car at 1,174' at 6 AM. Didn't make it to actual top, instead made it to Miller Peak (about 10,400') around 6 PM, then descended to the Aerial tramway and took the tram down. Southern California
Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') via Deer Springs with Kim. Didn't make it past the PCT, due to time and no tracks (route is not marked in winter). Valentine's day weekend. Southern California
Mt. Baldy (10,064') aka Mt. San Antonio, with the Caltech Alpine Club. Led group of 19 people. Spent night near ski hut. Feb 9-10. See the photos. See the alpine club trip page. San Gabriel Mountains, Southern California

Mt. Russell (14,088') via the South Face (Left Side), with Brett. One move was probably harder than class 4. Descended E. Ridge (class 3, or hard class 4 on actual ridge). Left 2:10 AM, summit at 9:40 AM, back at 2:10 PM. Nov 3rd. See the photos. Sierra Nevada.
Mt. Sill (14,153') via the Swiss Arete, with Sean and Justus. We took the whole arete, and roped up for the crux pitch (very short 5.7), having failed to awaken early enough to do U-Notch safely. Traversed to Polemonium only to be stopped 50' short of the summit by a group of 8 and a group of 3, who were roping up for the 3rd class section. Camped at Sam Mack Sat night. Descended from Sam Mack to car in 2:15. I had very bad blisters. Early October.
Mt. Whitney (14,457') via the East Face, one day ascent, with Brett. Started out fast (1:15 to LBSL) then slowed down a bit. Sept 29, 2007. A "classic" climb. See the photos.
Middle Palisade (14,012') via the standard route (variously known as E. Face or NE. Face), class 3. With Wayne, Adina, Jeandrew and Sean. Camp at Finger Lake on Sat night. Aug 25-26. See the photos.
Mt. Humphreys (13,986') via E. Arete (attempt). Made it only to Peak 13,151'. With Adina, Wayne, Sean and Justus, and Kim at camp. Sun Aug 6th. See the photos.
Lone Pine Pk. (12,944') via N. Ridge with Adina, Wayne and Greg. Date: July 14 and 15. Started Saturday morning, bivied before the first rope pitch, then completed the route on Sunday. Did two real roped pitches, plus 2 more (before and after the first real pitch). See the photos.
Mt. Stuart (9,415') via Ice Cliff Glacier, with Booth and Sean. Hike to in to high camp on Thur, June 14th, spend Friday in the tents waiting out the rain, climb and summit on Sat, and return Sunday after a windy night. Two pitches of blocky ice, one snowy bergshrund crossing, steep snow couloir and small cornice, then 3rd class scramble. In the Stuart area (near the Enchantments, outside of Leavenworth, WA). See the photos.
U-Notch on N. Palisade (14,242'), made it to the notch but no farther, with Sean, Justus, Wayne, Adina and Jeandrew. May 5 and 6th (slept at trailhead Friday night, return to town at 4 AM Mon morning). Cold and windy. In the Palisades area of Sierra Nevada, California. See the photos.
Lone Pine Pk. (12,944'), Point 3985 (13,074'), and Mt. Mallory (13,850') as part of a winter attempt at the Whitney Basin Traverse. With Booth, Boris and Tony, Sat March 17 to Tues March 20th. Gave up at Arc Pass due to high winds. Read the trip report at whitneyportalstore forums. See the photos.
Mt. Whitney (14,497') with the Caltech Alpine Club. Led group of 15 people. Via Mountaineer's Route. 7 of us camped at Lower Boy Scout Lake, then Iceberg Lake; 8 of us camped just at Iceberg Lake. March 9-13. Great weather -- very warm. See the alpine club trip page. See the photos.
Mt. Baldy (10,064') aka Mt. San Antonio, with the Caltech Alpine Club. Led group of 14 people. Spent night in/near ski hut. Windy at summit. Feb 24-25. See the alpine club trip page.
Chair Pk. (6,238') in the Cascades near Snowqualmie Pass, January 12, with Booth and Boris, involved some technical ice pitches and steep snow. Day climb. See the photos from the first day (we attempted on the first day, gave up due to a broken snowshoe, and then did the climb the next day).

Mt. Winchell (13,768') with Alpine Club (16 people), made it to 12,500', October 22. In the Palisades area of Sierras, California. See the photos.
U-Notch on N. Palisade (14,242'), failed to get close, with Susan, Kim and Kyle, made it to 12,500', Oct. 1. In the Palisades area of Sierras, California. See the photos.
Palisades Traverse, which includes Thunderbolt (14,003'), Starlight (14,200'), North Palisade (14,242'), Polemonium (14,080'), and Sill (14,153'), single day, Aug 27th, solo. Class 4 snow and rock, with some class 5. In the Palisades area of Sierras, California. Read the trip report on summitpost.org.
Lone Pine Pk. (12,944') via North Ridge, with Tony, Gary and Jeandrew, Aug. 20. Roped up for one pitch on second-to-last tower.
North Cascades, with Booth. High camp in Boston Basin at 6,400'.
- Thur July 20th, Mt. Buckner (9,080'), III 40-50 degree snow/ice, via Sahale-Boston col, and with an ascent of Sahale Pk. (8,680') as well.
- Fri, Sharkfin Tower (8,120') via SE Ridge, 5.0, and top-rope 1 pitch of 5.9 on SE Face, and do 3 pitches of low 5th class climbing on S. Face (new route?)
- Sat, Torment-Forbidden Traverse, Mt. Torment (8,120'), Forbidden Pk. (8,815'), traverse rated IV or V, 5.6. Tough gully to the notch at Torment (7,440') and gap between rock and snow. Traverse includes the W. Ridge of Forbidden (II or III, 5.6). East Ledges descent. The W. Ridge on Forbidden is a "classic" climb.
- Sun, Eldorado Pk. (8,868').
Longs Pk., (14,255') in Colorado, with Jacob, July 15, via Pervertical Sanctuary on the Diamond. 5.10d/5.11a. In Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (sort of) a "classic climb" (i.e. Steck and Roper refer to D1 I think) .
Mt. Shasta (14,162'), in N. California (very Southern Cascades), with Alpine Club, July 1 to 4. Led group of 14 people. Via Whitney Glacier, over two days. See the Alpine Club trip page.
Mt. Baldy (10,064'), aka Mt. San Antonio, with Sean, before school, May 9. In San Gabriel Mountains, Los Angeles.
Mt. Baldy (10,064'), aka Mt. San Antonio, with Alpine Club, April 29. In San Gabriel Mountains, Los Angeles. Led group of about 10 people.
Mt. Whitney (14,497') via Mountaineer's Route, Feb. 4 to 5, with Sean and Jeandrew, over two days. In Southern Sierras, California.

Mt. Mendel (13,710'), with Jacob, Dec. 13 to 16. Two nights, high camp at 12,500' in Lamarck Col. Descend into valley, do Mendel Right couloir, in bad conditions (end up simul-soloing it). I fall during rappel that night, spinning backwards, cracking helmet, and falling 20' before landing in steep snow, no major injuries. Climb out of valley back up 2,000' to our camp. Cold and tiring. In Evolution region of the Sierras, California.
[My very good friend and climbing partner Ryan dies, age 22, in an accident in Boulder, December]
[I begin PhD program at Caltech, October]
Longs Pk. (14,255') with Kim. Up via N. Face Cables route (low 5th class), descend via Keyhold route. Kim's first ascent of Longs. 5,316' vertival feet. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. August or September.
Mt. Shasta (14,162'), with Booth, Sept. 9 and 10. Day ascent via one of the glaciers on the East, sleep on summit. In N. California (very Southern Cascades).
Aiguille du Midi (12,605') via the Frendo Spur, with Boris. 20 moderate rock pitches with two spots of aid, simul-climbing on ice without protection, with some belays on the rock as angle steepened near the top, with one final pitch of 80 degree ice, which we protected with marginal screws. Aug. 1 and 2. Near Chamonix, in France. We used Rébuffat's guide for guidance.
Mont Blanc, (15,774') via Dome du Gouter route, with Boris. Uneventful. Leave train at 7 PM, at Gouter hut around 10 PM, wait on floor in the crowded hut until 2:30 AM, summit at 6 AM, back down by noon. July 27 and 28. Near Chamonix, in France/Italy.
Mont Maudit (14,648'), with Boris, en route to Mt. Blanc via Trois Monts route. Attempted Trois Monts route in a single day coming from Chamonix (took first tram car up around 7 AM), but didn't go fast enough and settle for Maudit instead. Outrun an avalanche caused by a serac fall on the way down; one fatality in the group behind us. Same slope has had similar serac-caused avalanches in recent years, with many fatalities. July 26. Near Chamonix, in France/Italy.
N. (13,502') and S. Arapahoe (13,397') with Colin (Skywalker, Steep Snow) July 14th; 3,395 vertical feet. Indian Peaks, Colorado.
Mt. Rainier (14,411'), with Boris, one day ascent (after waiting a week in Seattle for the rain to stop) via Ingraham Direct, leaving car at Paradise Trailhead around 1 AM, summit around 10 AM. Weather mixed; included some rain and snow. In Central Cascades, Washington State. June 7. Earlier in the week, we had an aborted attempt (due to rain) on the Ice Cliff Glacier route on Mt. Stuart with Colin, while Booth and others (Colin, Henry, Tushar, Michael) attempted Stuart from the South.
[I graduate from Wesleyan University, May]
Mt. Washington (6,288') with Boris. Did Lion's Head, due to avalanche conditions elsewhere. Gusts up to 70 mph. -5 F during the day. Feb. 27. In Presidential Range of the White Mountains, New Hampshire.
Mt. Washington (6,288'), in particular, Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, with Boris and Booth. Didn't summit, just made it to the flat plateau. 2 ice pitches, one at about 60 degree ice. Picked up my first two ice screws when a North Carolinean team bailed near the top due to the wind. We had 4 ice tools and 2 ice axes for all of us, and no ice screws, so I soloed the first pitch to a rock belay and lowered a set of tools via string; after that it was very easy going. Low of -3 F during the day. Feb. 18.
Mt. Washington (6,288') with Boris and Booth, via Dodge's Drop, and down via Right Gully in Tuckerman's Ravine. Feb. 11

Mt. Rainier (14,411') with Ryan and Boris, Dec. 18th to 20th. Two nights at Camp Muir, decided against Gibralter Ledges in favor of Ingraham Direct, made it to 12,500'. Stephen lost both big toe-nails on descent. Mid-December. In N. Central Cascades, Washington State.
Longs Pk. (14,255') via Casual Route on Diamond (5.10a, 9 pitches) with Ryan, August 10. Bivied near Chasm lake, then climbed 3 pitches of "Crack of Delight", followed by the Casual Route. 5 rappels to Broadway, 4 more to Mills Glacier. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (sort of) a "classic climb" (i.e. Steck and Roper refer to D1 I think) .
Presidential Traverse in White Mountains of New Hampshire, includes Mt. Washington (6,288') among a dozen others, with Boris, Leah and Booth. Booth did half, then returned to car to get lost keys. ~22 miles. Summer conditions, no snow. May.
Presidential Traverse, with Booth, March 18 and 19th, full winter conditions. Didn't finish (made it to base of Mt. Washington). Lots of ice, and we had neither crampons nor snowshoes. Snowed constantly, white-out conditions.
Bear Mt (~8,000') near Boulder, CO, with Jacob, January 14th. 1:20 up. Icy and slick snow from Fern Canyon to top. Light packs.
James Pk. (13,294') with Kim, Ryan, Jacob, Colin and Jamie and Mary (from IU-Bloomington) on Tue, Jan. 4th. Leave about 9:15 AM from trailhead, summit around 2 PM (Ryan arrives to summit around 1), down to cars by 4:30 PM. Very windy, very cold. Monday night in Boulder is around -6 F. Near Indian Peaks, Colorado.

N. (14,014') and S. Maroon Peaks (14,156') with Ryan, August. Easier than expected, took unnecessary gear - encountered perhaps one 4th class move. Traverse not very difficult, took about 1 hour or less. We downclimbed instead of rappelling on a fixed rope (there was a line of people waiting for it). In Elk Mountains of Colorado, near Aspen.
Crestone Needle (14,197'), Crestone Pk (14,294') and Mt. Humboldt (14,064') with Ryan; July 11. Start at 6:10 AM at 4x4 parking lot. Did Ellingwood Arete on the Needle, soloing 4th class until headwall (~9:30 AM). First roped pitch: slightly tricky at bottom, run out and easy at the top. Second roped pitch: pulled out piton at belay and nearly died. Moderate climbing, stopped when no more gear left. Third roped pitch: 5.7, ok pro, old pitons. Scrambled gully to top (12:15 PM). Began traverse to Peak at 1 PM, got info from two parties traversing to Needle. Traverse very tricky, lots of 4th class sections with large fall possibilities. Did one rappel, at beginning of traverse, I think. Thunder in distance, light sleet/hail/rain. Arrive at Pk at 4:30 PM, go down North Couloir (very loose). Traverse from Bear's Playground along ridge to Humboldt, descend to saddle (6:50 PM). Climb 1,300' to top (7:30 PM), descend to saddle, then to lake, and 3 mile hike to car (10:30 PM). Minimum 5,200' vert feet. ~ 10 hours above 13,000'. In Sangre de Cristos of Colorado. A "classic" climb.
[I get pneumonia, late June]
Horseshoe Pk. (~13,900') with Tom; June 21. Biked 10 min, then walked bikes for another 2 miles. Did the snow couloir. Very windy on top. Biked down on dirt road for two miles. ~2,500 vert feet. Central Colorado in Mosquito Range.
S. Boulder Pk. and Bear Mt.(~8,000') with AEA Summer Minority Group; early June. Went down 500' to escort straggler to top. ~3,000 vert feet, near Boulder, Colorado.
La Plata Pk. (14,336') with Ryan and Jacob; May 27. Tried for Ellingwood Ridge, did North Face instead (advanced snow climb). Soft snow, rock fall and avalanche. Postholed forever. Summit at 4:30 PM. 4,176 vertical feet. Central Colorado in Sawatch Range.
Castleton Tower via Kor-Ingalls ( A "classic" route ) and Independence Monument, with Jacob and Ryan, May 25 and 26.
[I quite competitive running, February]

Mt. Audubon (13,233') with Ryan and Colin; December 28, 2002. Winter ascent via standard route. 2,730 vertical feet. Snowcaved at base Jan 2 and 3, 2003.
Total Summer (2002) vertical feet to date (with guesses): 48,274'
Sharkstooth (12,630'), with Leo, via NE gulley (5.4 or so, 4 pitches roughly). Leo finally learned how to rappel. 2,500' vert ??
Longs Pk. (14,255') with Leo, Andy, Nate, Nate's girlfriend, Zuzana, Beth and Reid; Keyhole route, and detour to Chasm View; August 4th. 5,316' vertical feet. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Mt. Toll (12,979') with Esteban; July 27. Late start. Went up North Face. Supposed to be 3 pitch 5.6, found instead 1 long pitch 5.0-5.2 and 1 pitch ~5.7 (5.6 nearby ??). Slick ice, loose scree. Esteban's first experience with roped climbing. ~2,300 vert ?? Indian Peaks, Colorado.
Longs Pk. (14,255') with Colin and Elliot; July 15th,16th and 17th; camped at Sand Beach Lake, left towards Keplingers Couloirs at 4PM to avoid afternoon storms. Arrive top at 9 PM, spend night, leave next morning. ~6,000 vert ?? Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Longs Pk. (14,255') and Mt. Meeker (13,911'), with Colin; July 13. Went up Lambs Slide part way on snow with crampons, tried some ice, then scrambled to The Loft, did Meeker, then Clarks Arrow to Longs, descend Keyhole (leave at 4:30 AM, Meeker summuit at 9:30 AM, Longs at 11:00 AM, car at 3:20). ~5,616 vertical feet. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Mt. Lincoln (14,286'), Mt. Democrat (14,148'), Mt. Bross (14,172'), Grays Pk. (14,270') and Torreys Pk. (14,267'); with Ryan, Sat night and Sun morning, July 6th and 7th. From near Montgomery Res., left at 6:10 PM, arrived at 9:10, 11:10 and 1:20 AM on Lincoln, Democrat and Bross, resp. Slept on top of Bross w/o sleeping bag, but with pad and bivy sack. Miserable. In morning, ascent of Grays in 1:35, traverse in :30, and descent in :55. ~ 9,200 total vertical feet. Central Colorado.
Navajo Pk. (13,409') and Dickers Peck (13,140'), via the Navajo Snowfield and North Face, II, 5.0-5.2, Steep Snow; with Colin, around Sat, June 30th. 3 hour approach, did Navajo Snowfield with crampons (our first crampon ascent), did the Peck (loose rock! 5.5) then the North Face (2 pitches, 1st pitch 5.2, 2nd pitch also easy, clipped into one stuck nut). Did the 2nd variation on the pink/white summit cliff, obvious 5.4 crack, easy. 3,000 vertical feet. Indian Peaks, Colorado.
Mt. Bierstadt (14,060') with Charlie's AEA Summer Minority Students; attempted traverse on ridge with Esteban, got off route, Esteban takes nearly fatal fall off a cliff on serious class 4 scrambling. June 23rd. 2,410 vertical feet. Central Colorado.
Mt. Humbolt (14,064') with Tom and Reid, standard route with an overnight camp, June 18th and 19th. 4,464' vertical feet. San Juans, Colorado.
Bear Pk. and S. Boulder Pk. (~8,000') with AEA Summer Minority Students. ~3,000' vert feet. Near Boulder, Colorado.
[I get a severe back injury; take MRI and begin physical therapy]
Mt. Neva (12,814'), with Tom, Nate Abbot and Bill Abbot via Juliet Couloir, I, Class 2, Moderate Snow May 27th. Indian Peaks, Colorado. 2,670 vertical feet
Hallet (12,713'), with Colin via Tyndall Glacier, down Andrews, May 21st. In Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. 2,300 vertical feet?

Quandary Pk. (14,265') with Jacob, Ryan and Colin, East Ridge route, "novice", December 30th, 2001 3,365 vertical feet, Central Colorado.
[I begin college at Wesleyan University in August]
Quandary Pk. (14,265') with Charlie, East Ridge route, "novice", August 10th, 2001 3,365 vertical feet, Central Colorado.
Challenger (14,080') and Kit Carson (14,165) with Tom (and Reid up to Challenger), July 16th and 17th, 2001 3,500 vertical feet? Sangre de Cristos, Colorado
Longs Pk. (14,255') via Casual Route on Diamond (5.10a, 9 pitches) with Jacob, July 2nd and 3rd, 2001 4,845 vertical feet, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (sort of) a "classic climb" (i.e. Steck and Roper refer to D1 I think) .
Longs Pk. (14,255') via N. Face Cable Route with Tom, Jacob and Ryan, advanced, June 26th, 2001 4,845 vertical feet, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Navajo (13,409') with Tom via Airplane Gully, June 22nd, 2001 2,910 vertical feet. Indian Peaks, Colorado.
Sharkstooth (12,630') and Petit Grepon (~12,000') with Jacob via Northeast Ridge (5.6, 8 pitches) on Sharkstooth, via South Face (5.8, 8 pitches) on Petit Grepon (a "classic" climb), June 17th, 18th and 19th, 2001 3,500' vertical feet combined? Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
N. (13,502') and S. Arapahoe (13,397') with Tom (Streetwalker, II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow) June 11th, 2001; 3,395 vertical feet. Indian Peaks, Colorado.
[I graduate Fairview High School in Boulder, CO, in May]
Mt. Bierstadt (14,060') with Jacob (Charlie made it most of the way up) novice January 20th, 2001 2,410 vertical feet. Central Colorado.

Hallet Pk. (12,713') and Otis Pk. (12,486') with Tom (who broke foot) via Tyndall Glacier, down Andrews Glacier, July 26th and 27th , 2000. 2,500' vertical feet?
Jasper Pk. (12,943') with Tom via Northeast Slopes, down Gaiteraid, July 2000; 2,860 vertical feet
Pawnee Pk. (12,943') and Mt. Toll (12,979') up Pawnee pass, down Toll with Tom (South Slopes, II, Class 2), June 2000; 2,789 vertical feet

Mt. Bierstadt (14,060') Standard route with Boy Scouts (including Mary and Charlie), September 1999, novice, 2,410 vertical feet
Mt. Elbert (14,433') (FAILED) Echo Canyon route with Boy Scouts and Charlie, September or October 1999. Made it 2,000' vertical feet?

Grays Pk. (14,270') from Stevens Gulch trailhead, intermediate, failed to do Torreys. August 1997, with family and Elin, 3,040 vertical feet
Longs Pk. (14,255') Keyhole route with Charlie, August or September 1997 or 1998. 4,845 vertical feet

Page last modified Feb 08, 2013